Friday, November 16, 2018

Southern Cornbread Dressing


Thanksgiving in the South, at least in my family, always includes cornbread dressing to go with the turkey. Traditionally, Southerners don't stuff the bird but cook a cornbread-based mixture in a pan. When I was growing up, my mother told me this was because cooking stuffing inside the turkey was dangerous -- it could lead to ptomaine poisoning.

This isn't just an old wives' tale. It's true that the stuffing can get soaked with turkey juices but not cook to a high enough temperature to be safe as it's buried deep inside the bird. Besides, there would never be enough stuffing to go around to give everyone an ample portion (not to mention seconds and leftovers).

My family frequently duplicated the basics of Thanksgiving dinner for Christmas dinner as well, and I always welcomed the opportunity to have turkey and dressing in December, too. We've gotten away from that habit, but really you can have turkey and dressing -- or chicken and dressing -- any time of year.


My mother did not have a written recipe for her dressing. She worked with some basic ratios but this was mostly a recipe that she made by look and feel. I've continued in this vein, but given that I only make this once per year at best, I decided to document what I did last year. So, with a few tweaks, this is essentially my mother's dressing. We frequently prepare a double recipe so that we can enjoy leftovers the next day, and have enough for guests to take some home if they like.

Nanny, my grandmother on my father's side, also made dressing for some of our holiday gatherings. Her mixture was not as moist, and where my mother added the turkey giblets to the gravy, Nanny added them to the dressing. I'm not a giblet fan overall, so I leave them out. If you'd like, though, simmer the turkey neck and giblets in water or stock, chop, and add to the mixture before baking.

One great thing about dressing is that while it has several components, much of it can be prepped ahead of time. Look for the make ahead tips below.

Southern Cornbread Dressing


2 batches of Barbara's Georgia Cornbread
3 cups of good quality white bread, cut into 1/4" to 1/2" cubes
4 Tbsp butter
1 medium onion, chopped finely (approximately 1 cup)
3 ribs celery, chopped finely
1/2 tsp table salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
3 tsp sage (or more, to taste)
1 quart turkey or chicken broth (low sodium is fine)
3 large eggs, well beaten

Up to 3 days before: 
Cook the cornbread and allow to cool. Crumble finely and store in an airtight container or large zipper bag. (If you are not making ahead at least a day, spread the crumbled cornbread on a baking sheet and allow to dry a bit before continuing with the assembly.)

Spread the bread cubes on a baking sheet and dry in the oven at 350F for 10 minutes. Allow to cool. If making ahead, store in an airtight container or large zipper bag.

Melt the butter over medium heat in a saute pan or skillet. Add the onion, celery, and salt to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent. (Don't allow to brown.) Remove from heat and stir in the pepper and sage. Allow to cool. If making ahead, store in the refrigerator in an airtight container or zipper bag and refrigerate.

Up to several hours ahead:
Coat the inside of a 9 x 13 inch baking pan with non-stick cooking spray or softened butter. In a very large mixing bowl, combine the cornbread, bread cubes, onion and celery mixture, and broth. Mix well. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Add beaten eggs and mix well. Pour the mixture into the prepared baking pan. Set aside for at least 30 minutes and up to several hours. (Store in the refrigerator if allowing to sit more than 30 minutes or so.) When you first mix everything together it will still be a little soupy, with a definite liquid component separate from the cornbread and bread. As the mixture sits, the cornbread and bread will soak up more of the liquid and the whole will be more homogeneous. That's a good thing!



Baking:
Bake the dressing in a preheated 350F oven for 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the edges are golden brown and the center is no longer wet. Allow to rest for 10 or 15 minutes before serving. Cut into squares, or let your guests scoop out their portion with a large serving spoon.

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