Sunday, March 15, 2020

The Easiest Easy Roast Chicken

I've been making this easy roast chicken for years. The inspiration comes from Thomas Keller, of the world-famous French Laundry and other restaurants. You'd think that a good roast chicken recipe shouldn't be this simple, but trust me -- If you are accustomed to rubbing things over or under the skin, basting, or otherwise fussing with your chicken, you don't need any of that to have a great bird. If you've never made roast chicken before, this is foolproof and requires next to no effort. The only issues you might run into is if your chicken is spoiled, or if there's a problem with your oven.

The lovely thing about roast chicken for me, as a single grrl, is that it gives me multiple meals. The first is obviously as a traditional entree as it emerges hot from the oven, all crackly brown skin and tender meat. But, after the remainder is cooled sufficiently, the whole thing gets wrapped in foil and put in the fridge. Now I have the makings for a chicken sandwich, or chicken salad, or some tasty protein I can add to a soup or a salad. The possibilities are endless; the presence of a roasted chicken in your icebox is the gateway to additional tasty lunches and dinners.

So, you might want to roast two chickens at the same time, just to have a lovely stash of cooked chicken in the fridge. Of course if you are feeding more than 2 or 3 people in a meal, you might need to cook two, anyway.  If you put them in the same pan, just make sure it's large enough that there's plenty of air around each bird so that they roast properly.

Naturally, the better your chicken, the better your end product. But I've made a good roast chicken this way with the most generic, manager-special, cook-it-today-or-throw-it-away chicken. If you can get your hands on good chicken -- organic, air-chilled, etc. etc. then so much the better. But when the wallet and pantry are thin, this will make you feel like you are living off the fat of the land.

Keller advocates roasting a completely dry bird, with nothing in the cavity that might create steam. I understand that directive, but I can't help but add allium of some kind -- I think the flavor boost it provides outweighs the small bit of steam that might be produced.

Easy Roast Chicken

adapted from Thomas Keller / Epicurious

1 2-to-3-pound whole chicken*
1 Tbsp + 1 tsp Kosher or other course salt
Freshly ground black or white pepper to taste (optional)
1 small onion, quartered, or an equivalent amount of shallot, or leeks, or scallion, whatever onion-thing you have on hand

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Rinse the chicken, then dry it very well with paper towels, inside and out. Sprinkle 1 tsp of the salt in the cavity, along with the pepper if using. Place the onion inside. If you know how to truss a chicken, and feel so inclined, do so. (I usually don't bother.)

Salt the outside of the chicken very well. Pat the salt onto the skin if needed to help it stick. You're almost forming a salt crust, but not quite. Don't just concentrate on the breast, but all over.

Place the chicken in a roasting dish or pan where the chicken will be somewhat snug if possible. Put the chicken in the oven and roast until done, usually 50 to 60 minutes. DON'T fuss with it. Don't baste, don't even open the door unless it's to rotate halfway through cooking time. When the 50 minutes is up, take its temperature. Stick an instant- or quick-read thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh, as deep as you can, but don't touch bone with the probe. When this temp reaches 165F, the chicken is done.

Remove the chicken to a cutting board and let it rest for 15 minutes. You can use this time to finish up the side dishes and start haranguing the other diners to start washing their hands. When ready to serve, you can carve it in a traditional manner, as with a Thanksgiving turkey. Or, you can simply cut it in half lengthwise using a large butcher knife, and then if needed, cut each piece again crosswise so that you have 4 chicken quarters.

I'm a minimalist, so I'm happy with the plain chicken. You can, however add a gravy or sauce of your choosing. If your roasting pan is stove-save, you can use the drippings to make a simple pan sauce.

P.S. The onion in the cavity will be very soft -- overcooked, really. But, soaked in chicken juices, sweet and tender, it is a delicious cook's treat.


* You can use this method with a larger chicken; you may need to increase cooking time, but check the temperature as directed above at 50 minutes.


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